The Day I Officially Became an Italian Citizen
Last year gave me the opportunity to not only offer Italian Culinary Tours again but to also spend time in places I’ve traveled before and some which I have never seen. Each time I have exploring experiences in Italy, I find them to be insightful research for the one-of-a-kind vacations I offer my clients. I never know what extraordinary place awaits me just around the bend or when the right someone will drop into my life who is a perfect fit for the position I was thinking of creating. I am grateful to 2022 for new friendships and deeper relationships overall.
The hills near Montelepre, Sicily
I had been waiting on my dual citizenship recognition in my grandparents’ hometown. To begin the process, I needed to establish residency in Montelepre by renting an apartment in the center of the village. The lease needed to be registered with the town hall, and shortly after, the local policemen came by to verify I was indeed living there. I had visited this little mountain city, which overlooks the sea on the west side of Sicily, for nearly 10 years. There, people grow up knowing other town residents the way the rest of us know members of our own families. Friendships are strong. Family ties are tightly bound. Special moments large and small are celebrated.
I heard there was an Italian American woman who had moved to town with her two adult daughters. They were in the process of getting their Italian passports and in the meantime were exploring the village of Montelepre and the outlying areas. I asked for an introduction from Enzo, a local bakery shop owner I became friends with who I learned was renting an apartment to the family. Her name was Ottavia (“Tave” for short) and we met at the bakery belonging to her landlord. She and her girls were getting to see firsthand the mild winters where their relatives lived. From the rainy Pacific Northwest of the USA, they had waited over a year for international travel to be a possibility and Italy's borders to open up again. Ottavia, an established singer and performer, was on a hiatus from music due to the pandemic so had joined a local choir in Montelepre. Tave had performed with her parents for many years and recently was the lead singer for Gerle Haggard (an all-girl, country band that performs Merle Haggard songs). Her daughters were doing online college classes, and the three of them often helped in the bakery as another way to be part of the community and improve their conversational Italian. She also quickly learned to speak Italian in just a few months by immersing herself in the town, speaking with locals as often as possible. Eventually, it’s possible Tave and her husband Dow, who wasn’t with her on this trip, will retire in Sicily. So, getting her Italian citizenship would make it easier to buy a home and stay in the country for longer periods.
On tall bar stools over thimble-sized cups of espresso, I told her my story of taking a leap of faith to start Italian Culinary Tours. We agreed that people who follow their dreams and have the blessing of loved ones are lucky. When people travel, they are given the privilege of getting to know the world and others’ worlds. The moments stretch out and fly by simultaneously. Days can appear like weeks, but the last year can also seem like yesterday.
I had a couple of dinner parties to serve as “meet and greets” with young people and seniors alike. Tave and the girls agreed to lend a helping hand and joined in making pasta, including tortellini. We measured and mixed, stirred and sliced, but most importantly we laughed and enjoyed one another’s company. On more than one occasion, we enjoyed Sicilian cassata from a local pasticceria. Cassata is a ricotta-style cheesecake covered in an almond fondant and decorated with tangy candied fruit. It is a specialty and something to be tasted at every opportunity.
Shortly after our serving others together, Ottavia’s daughters began hanging out with us regularly and having conversations on every topic imaginable - especially cooking! Italians of all backgrounds are very serious about cuisine! Card games were concentrated on and enthusiastically laughed over by both generations together. We were having such good times when all of a sudden, the universities in America opened back up for in-person classes, and off the girls went.
Ottavia agreed to help me with my business when she was in Italy. She was getting ready to return to Oregon since she was scheduled to produce and host a gala abroad. I suggested we take a scouting-out, daytime, road trip to the southwestern seaside city of Sciacca before she left. She excitedly agreed. Sciacca is less than an hour from Agrigento and the town where the Valley of the Temples is located. This would be an opportunity to research other areas in the vicinity to offer on tours in the future. We arrived in Sciacca and walked through one of three giant, city gates from the 16th century with its two-story-tall, wooden-shuttered doors held together by hand-crafted iron slats. This was the gateway to town entering from the direction of Palermo.
The flights of outdoor steps leading to the marina had colorful tiles inscribed with names and featuring decorative scenes, fruit (which seems to be in season there all the time) and some fauna (less than you might expect because, after all, Sicily is an island). There I noticed plaques for the Rotary Club too; something that has been part of my life for many years. As we walked along the dock laughing in the clear air, we took off our jackets as the warm Sicilian sun began to take hold. We chatted, reminiscing about the different towns where we grew up.
We happened upon some fishermen enthusiastic about showing us their nets and fish. They shared their life stories with us. We learned they were friends who had traveled from another city, essentially playing hooky from work, to have a leisurely day fishing together on this glorious morning in Sciacca. Everyone was at ease, including the sea.
As we strolled along the docks, I got the call telling me the good news about my citizenship. I was in shock that my application was expedited and kept replaying the message out loud, "Robert, you are an official Italian citizen!" Ottavia was delighted to be there when I got the news. What were the chances! We were now, in essence, Monteleprini siblings. We couldn't have been happier. Both of us were smiling so big our cheeks hurt. We excitedly told our new acquaintances, the fishermen. We hugged and took selfies to commemorate the occasion, but that memory will be etched permanently in my mind forever!
We decided to find a local establishment to celebrate over lunch. We walked through the charming streets of town, laughing and reminiscing about all it took to get to this point. The roads were flush with shops, but nearly all were closed as a result of its being siesta time. We looked through windows enjoying the fine lines of clothing, carefully laid out displays of housewares, and more. Sciacca has an old, yet upscale, feel as if you are visiting Palm Springs and Boston all at once.
Luckily a small, three-generation, family-run grocery store and delicatessen was still open. As we walked in, the smell of fresh bread and savories hit our senses immediately. The adult son behind the counter greeted us robustly and gave his recommendations for the salami, cheese, olive and pickled vegetable offerings. He then provided us with samplings of various local delicacies. He took us through the store presenting the different types of products from all over the region. We picked out a cold drink - Italian Fanta made with real orange juice - sweet, naturally colored, and refreshing!
Salumeria Gulino in Sciacca
To wash my hands, I had to push a floor pedal to get the water flowing. Ottavia, unable to figure out how the sink worked, had used a hose over the utility drain which set off gales of giggling from the proprietor’s wife and Ottavia, herself. A demonstration on how to use the sink was given by the older woman - a quaint and charming touch to our time there.
The son came with our food, exclaiming the store has been in business for countless generations. We could see his pride for the family deli as he pointed out large vintage photos and memorabilia adorning the walls. He then left us to enjoy our indoor picnic.
There was a diverse array of flavors from the salami, various textures to the cheeses, and the accompanying assortment of olives from the south of Italy was delicious. As we ate, we talked about our individual plans for the future and the different things we wanted to do and see.
After waiting for us to finish, the father came over and said it was now time for them to lock up so they could go have their own lunch. But first, he gave us the warmest look and a sincere invitation to return. We thanked them, took a few pictures of the store and the streets, and returned through the city gates to the car.
As we drove further down the coast, photo opportunities of the diverse coastal landscape were abundant. Each presented a different backdrop to the day I knew I would always remember. It’s not every day one becomes a citizen of another country and now Ottavia and I got to share my achievement. Joking and reminiscing about the new memories we had created, we knew that we would always have each other as brother and sister and that our friendship would only grow stronger with time.
As the daylight was fleeting, we finally reached our sightseeing goal - The Scala dei Turchi (Turkish Steps). The enormous stairs were carved out by nature thousands of years ago. They consist of marl stone, a bright white, soft, calcareous, claylike material that looks from a distance like snow covering the cliffs. The soft stone has been worked by the sea and the salty breeze creating a series of terraces with smooth angles that resemble a staircase climbing up the cliffside. The name, Scala dei Turchi, seems to have been obtained from the ancient times when Arab and Turkish marauders in ships sought shelter in this bay.
Finally, what better way to end a day of excitement and exploring Sicily than with a scoop of gelato? Pistachio for me and mulberry sorbet for Ottavia. Mulberries in Sicily grow on enormous trees instead of bushes as the popular children’s song implies. The berries come in purple and green - like grapes. The sorbet was a violet so deep it was nearly black, and it had an unexpectedly delicate taste.
A proud Italian citizen!
I will always remember the day I became a citizen of Italy, the country of my ancestors. It is a memory I share with Ottavia (my fellow Monteleprini and symbolic sister) filled with love, laughter, and good food. I know there will be many more beautiful days to come as I continue exploring and discovering Italy’s regions alongside and through the eyes of cherished friends, family, and guests.
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