Elba - The Other Tuscany
When one thinks of Tuscany it’s easy to recall the scenes from the movies of rolling hills of vineyards, waves of sunflowers basking in the warm sun and hearty cuisine with Bistecca and wild boar in abundance. But there is another Tuscany, almost completely different from the movies. A short ferry ride from Piombino to Fortoferraio takes you to Elba, a water land oasis from the heavy tourist traffic. I full heartedly agree one must visit the Amalfi Coast and Capri, but if you really want to find relaxation, real local cuisine and vistas to fall in love with, then Elba is the place to be.
Recently, after a long month of tours, I decided to rejuvenate my body with a long stay on the island in a little apartment near Capoliveri; a wonderful little town high up a hill overlooking the southeastern coast of the island. October is the perfect time of year, when the sun is still warm and most of the mostly European guests have gone back to their everyday lives. At times I could drive the coastline in the remote parts of the island soaking in the beautiful views without seeing another car drive by for 30 minutes or so.
One of these excursions took me to Marciana, a little mountain town with amazing views to look at as you drink your happy hour crisp local white wine. Just below Marciana, in Cabinovia, I hopped on a standing-room-only, two-person cableway that pulls you straight up M. Capanne for even greater views of the sea and coastline. At first, the ride was extremely quiet, with only the sound of the cable and the occasional rolling sound of the car wheels as it passed through the support towers. Looking around the green forest in the Tuscan Archipelago National Park as the cable car progressed upward, provided a setting for deep meditation before reaching the 1019-meter platform. My meditation was cut short by the sound of some strange music coming from the PA speakers attached to the support towers close to the top. It just added to the unique experience and provided some entertainment for the man assisting passengers off and on the cable cars at the top. It was at the top I met the one and only fellow American traveler during the entire week.
I finished my day of fresh air on the mountain with a glass of Trebbiano Toscano, a special variety of Trebbiano called Procanico Rosa, most often grown in the Tuscan Archipelago and especially on Elba. The little bar provided an amazing view of the sunset while I sipped my delicious wine and munched on the salty chips placed before me.
A map shows a hiking trail that also takes you to the top and spans from one end of the island to the other. It’s no wonder why I saw so many hikers when I first arrived in Capoliveri, I imagine the trail provides a good challenge as well as breath-taking beauty along the way.
On my second night I had a surprise dinner with the parents of one of our tour chefs who just happen to be on a bicycle vacation. The group was staying at the Hotel Stella Maris, a lovely spot with a swimming cove off the back patio. They introduced me to the chef, who then prepared a fantastic meal. I decided on wild boar (cinghiale) ragu with pappardelle pasta and my secondi was monkfish wrapped in bacon.
Normally after a month of tours in the heart of Tuscany I run to the coast for seafood, but the cinghiale is such a treat. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. Besides, the fish, albeit encased in bacon, served its purpose for my seafood appetite. Also, during our tours I often passed on dolce after being tempted all month with our chef’s (and my) desserts at the villa, but this night was a special occasion, so why not try all three? The chocolate torte with strawberries would normally be my favorite; anything chocolate easily gets my attention. And the orange custard torte had a tangy citrus zing to it. But the show stopper was the cream meringue pie. The meringue was so fluffy and sweet and the crust just exploded in my mouth on contact with my tongue. It was a beautiful setting for a such a feast with wonderful friends.
The next day, my solo retreat continued with a drive to S. Martino, to visit the National Museum of Napoleonic Residences of Elba – Villa of San Martino. It’s worth the time and money and the 4-euro parking fee, if you are a history lover like me. I would be happy to pay the parking if I knew the money was going to the museum, but this is Italy, and that never seems to be the case when one visits these types of places. Nevertheless, it was interesting to visit the home and look out the window to see the Portoferraio view as Napoleon did during his exile here. I didn’t make it to his Portoferraio home, since it is closed on Tuesdays, the day I visited. However, I did visit most of the places on the Cosmopoli Card I purchased, except the Villa Romana Delle Grotte, which was closed due to an archaeology dig.
The Fortezze Medicee E Forte Falcone and the Archeologica Della Linguella were interesting and worth the visit. The exhibit at the Centro Culturale “De Laugirer” described life during Napoleon’s time there. I especially liked the Teatro Dei Vigilanti. Upon Napoleon’s arrival in 1814, the residents decided to transform the former church, which had long been used as a military depot, into a theater. However, despite the elegant décor and splendid curtain, the emperor was unimpressed, due to the narrowness of the building. It went on to become a movie-house and was abandoned in 1952 for decades until 1974 when the Municipality of Portoferraio gained ownership. Now, residents and visitors can delight in its original splendor and know that it continues to host shows of all kinds.
My most favorite time on the island was to take an early drive to a distance beach on the southwestern side of the island and sit with a book and sack lunch. I had some spectacular sunny days and the water sparkled like diamonds. The beach at Fetovaia was sandy and you can rent or purchase anything you need to make for a great day at the beach. Or, choose a more isolate beach on any of the numerous locations along the shoreline. Another drive took me to the northeastern tip to Cavo for a stop for cappuccino and a tasty lunch in Porto Azzurro. Normally I stay away from places in the Centro or right on the water. However, I needed some Wi-Fi to do some work, since my apartment didn’t come with it.
La Caravella is located right on the harbor and provides a nice array of seafood and soups and Tuscan fare. I started with a seafood salad, which was a melody of various Mediterranean delights. The sardines had a delicious orange glaze and the smoked swordfish was full of flavor. The shrimps were big and cooked just right. The calamari were pretty average. The best part of the meal was the mussels in broth. The high-quality shellfish was cooked just right and I soaked my saltless Tuscan bread in the broth before I gleefully ate about what seemed like a half of loaf.
The island offers rental equipment, such as e-bikes, scooters or even boats. It was a little cold for my Florida blood, so maybe next time I will rent a boat. The next time you think about a stay in Tuscany, add a little water to that sunshine you dream about. You won’t be sorry spending a little of your time in the paradise of Elba.
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